Before attaching his byline to more than 60 restaurants in the US, Chef Fabio Viviani was a successful Florentine restaurateur and a Top Chef competitor. While he didn’t win the top prize, he did earn a badge that foreshadowed his meteoric success—Fan Favorite. Today, each of his concepts deliver masterful, elevated renditions of recognizable hits. And since May of this year, those fan-favorite hits come to downtown Bradenton with Taverna Toscana, an upscale Italian chophouse on Sixth Avenue West. Nestled in a beautiful build-out just north of the SUNZ Insurance high-rise, the 220-seat restaurant is owned by SUNZ Insurance CEO and entrepreneur Steve Herrig, who hopes Taverna Toscana bolsters the continued enrichment of Downtown Bradenton. The menu, expertly executed by Executive Chef Clay Thompson, certainly promises to enrich a few palates.
The starters set the tone early. A grilled octopus packs layers of flavor often reserved for big ticket entrees. Cooked sous vide before being grilled, it comes draped atop crispy marbled potatoes. A nice char on the octopus forms a core flavor profile before things ramp up with a charred lemon beurre blanc drizzled with housemade saba, a syrup made from the fresh must of wine grapes. All together, it’s a balanced bite that’s sweet, savory and smoky with just a bit of tang.
A grilled bone marrow introduces a hefty dose of umami. The marrow itself has a silky mouthfeel complemented by the tomato and onion jam, while the gremolata’s perky, garlicky flavor is just the right exclamation point. But, arguably, it’s Fabio’s wagyu meatball that more fully embodies the restaurant’s practice of playing the greatest hits to perfection. Its most impressive trait is that it’s juicy all the way to the center despite its size. The rustic tomato sugo, olive oil, basil and whipped ricotta all convene with the wagyu beef to capture something timeless. Both the bone marrow and meatball are also accompanied by delicious crostinis, made with bread sourced from a B-town baker.
For entrees, the wagyu short rib bolognese could easily feed two. The short rib is braised for eight hours before making its way into the savory ragout. It’s served with paccheri pasta and topped with shaved grana padano cheese, which is similar to parmesan. This is the entree that cures bad days, that comforts like a hug, that holds all the promise of a good night’s sleep.
The 35-day dry-aged, bone-in ribeye isn’t just a mouthful to order, it’s 20 ounces of beef bravura that rivals the finest steakhouses for 100 miles. This is steak the way steak is meant to be—juicy, savory, tender with fat perfectly rendered. This particular plating comes with a roasted bulb of garlic, which makes for a wonderful topping. The rest of the steak offerings—which can be read on the menu or gazed at longingly in the display case—include the usual suspects, all wet-aged for 28 days.
For as good as the ribeye is, as impressive as the starters are, or as feel-good as the short rib pasta is, it’s the pork chop that might be most deserving of the fan favorite badge. A pork chop doesn’t often excite, existing as an afterthought if it makes its way onto a menu at all. At Taverna Toscana, the pork chop takes center stage.
First, it’s nearly as tender as a baked potato thanks to a bit of manual marbelizing (injected fat). That means it doesn’t dry out as it reaches the right temperature on the grill. It also means a typically dull, relatively inexpensive cut of meat now eats more like a filet mignon. Accompanied by a hardy and healthy broccolini and chickpea ragu, the chop is enhanced further by a smoked red pepper romesco. This is not the desiccated bargain meal of your youth. This is decadence at its best.
Of course, no upscale dining is complete without signature, Instagrammable cocktails. In this case, they’re all perfect for sipping on the ample outside patio bar on a warm night. The Equinox is Florida in a glass, with an easy-drinking, citrusy blend of vodka, tangerine juice, honey and orange blossom. The Hidden Palms, also vodka-based, is a party-punch mix of banana-infused Luxardo, guava puree and prosecco. From the non-alcoholic offerings, the Strawberry Crush is a refreshing, peppy blend of ginger beer, lime juice, strawberry and mint.
A special note to those who rely on map apps to navigate nuanced downtown districts: Do not use Apple Maps. Unless, of course, driving around in circles gets our appetite going. Either way, fan favorites await.
