Screaming Goat Taqueria, 6606 Superior Avenue.

Of all the food trends of the last decade, none deserve more praise than those fast-casual eateries that, rather than settle for the common blandness of franchises, pack their food with as much complexity, flavor and inventiveness as the finest of fine dining establishments. Among local champions are Smoqehouse and its BBQ sandwiches, Fushipoke and its poke bowls and, alone in the top tier of tacos, Screaming Goat Taqueria.

What chef Malin Parker has done to tacos since 2018 is nothing short of sublime. By fusing old, authentic recipes with new and inspired concepts, then executing an encyclopedia of house-made add-ons like salsas, toppings and frescas, Screaming Goat Taqueria found itself an instant clientele in a crowded tacoscape. A hearty lunch might consist of three tacos made as they are listed on the chalkboard above the prep area. The cochinita pibil taco is made as close as hygienically possible to the banana leaf-wrapped and coal-buried version the ancient Mayans made centuries ago, then adds avocado, tomatillo salsa, arugula, pickled red onion, and queso fresco. Savory, moist and a tad sweet, the pork takes tacos where even the most authentic Mexican restaurants do not. The pollo asado, marinated in citrus and herbs, comes topped with smoked red pepper salsa, curtido, pico de gallo and queso fresco. The tangy and cool curtido blends perfectly with the bright orange salsa, while the cubed chicken has just the right amount of char to break through the explosive flavor of the toppings.

Of the revolving door of outlandish taco concepts, the Korean beef is worthy of a permanent place on the menu. Roasted in gochujang barbecue sauce, the beef packs the punch of a 2-ton umami bomb, while the curtido, cilantro and lime round out what becomes a full-mouth experience.

Screaming Goat Taqueria, 6606 Superior Avenue.

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