Assuming you are familiar with the delicious marvel of a crab cake already, it’s due time to familiarize yourself with a “reef cake.” The new Southside Village eatery is caking up all kinds of fishy proteins to create your ideal sandwich from the sea. Locally-sourced fish come fresh from a St. Pete seafood purveyor, and are then filetted and assembled into handcrafted fish cakes with minimal breadcrumbs or filling. These delightful patties from Gulf waters and beyond are baked, then briefly seared to achieve a satisfying texture. The hockey-puck-size victuals eventually resemble your tried-and-true crab cake. When former New Englander Mike Martin was looking for a different way to cook his almost daily intake of seafood, these experimental patties became a real showstopper at the dinner table one night with his wife.  “Our Asian-inspired salmon cakes were not only the first cakes that evolved, but also my personal favorite,” says Martin. “The flavor and texture of this cake pairs wonderfully with the crunch and flavors of our house red cabbage slaw. The combination of fresh ginger and sesame oil make this dish a deep dive into some awesome Asian flavors.”

OWNER AND SEAFOOD CONNOISSEUR MIKE MARTIN WANTS TO SHARE A BEER WITH YOU. PHOTOGRAPHY BY WYATT KOSTYGAN

Build your own reef cake creation off of the protein of your choice—from local Jamaican jerk grouper, Cajun red snapper and Gulf shrimp to outliers like Chilean salmon, Maryland jumbo lump crab and New England lobster. Next, choose your “cake bed” preference from organic arugula, spring mix, organic baby spinach, kale or romaine (for low-carb options), or a baked baguette or brioche bun for the full handheld experience. Meanwhile, specialty “enhancers’’ (sauces Martin put zeal into creating for his fellow condiment lovers) allow you to add onto your masterpiece and kick your cake up a few notches. “We want our sauces to ‘enhance’ the meal, not take over and dominate the main protein,” he says. “When we constructed our jerk grouper cakes, it was a simple decision to pair that with our house-made Caribbean salsa. The spices and herbs in the cake are quickly complemented by the bright citrus-y flavors of pineapple-based salsa.” Summer corn relish, macadamia nut pesto, cilantro avocado crema, firecracker sauce, orange ginger, teriyaki, scampi sauce, key lime tartar, the list of enhancers goes on. And from there, customers can get greedy with it, adding on grilled pineapple, jalapenos, dill pickles, applewood smoked bacon, vine-ripened tomatoes and more. The versatility you have with personalizing your own cake is what keeps you coming back to try out new flavor combinations and a different fusion of fixings. 

A SPREAD OF FISH AND CRAB CAKE VARIATIONS SERVED UP ON A SILVER PLATTER WITH SIDE DISHES OF ROASTED TRICOLORED POTATOES AND A SPRING MIX SALAD. PHOTOGRAPHY BY WYATT KOSTYGAN

Or, go in on the Island Charcuterie Board, which steps up your typical meat and cheese grazing board by incorporating a surf and turf verve. Presented with poached cocktail shrimp, Maryland jumbo lump crab, grilled pineapple, heirloom grape tomatoes and deviled eggs, the assorted Boar’s Head meats and cheeses surprisingly pair well with the seafood flavorings, cocktail sauce, Dijon mustard and assorted water crackers. Finish your meal on a sweet and tart note with key lime pie for dessert or a flight of Florida craft beers from a draft selection of breweries from Sarasota, Tampa and mile markers in-between. It’s easy to get sucked in for longer than you planned, sitting back and enjoying the islandy feel of the restaurant that’s gone full steam ahead with the nautical and reggae theme. Rattan light fixtures hang from the ceiling while fish netting, seashells, driftwood accents and jute rope in sailor knots sporadically adorn the booths and walls—walls that are covered in larger-than-life murals by the Vitale Bros. of Tampa Bay Street Artist Collective. Painted shapes of octopus, lobster, hogfish, turtle, crab, snook and flowing seaweed grace the walls. Meanwhile, local carpenter Dave Cornell collaborated with Martin to come up with the idea for custom-made tabletops when Martin sourced coveted vintage Gulf Coast Florida postcards from eBay. Old images of Siesta Key, Longboat Key and Anna Maria Island—along with shots that date back pre-Sunshine Skyway Bridge, Marina Jack and Miramar Hotel—are arranged across the entire bar top, with some laid on their back to show off evocative, time-stamped messages to loved ones in cursive handwriting. “Sarasota natives really get a kick out of seeing these nostalgic images of the area—they usually end up sharing their memories and stories from the past with me,” he says. 

FLORIDA POSTCARDS AND JAMAICAN MAGAZINE TEAR OUTS. PHOTOGRAPHY BY WYATT KOSTYGAN.

Martin scored more gems on eBay—a stack of 1970s and 1980s Jamaican reggae magazines—to use in the decor. Pages of vintage print were ripped out, glued and then glossed over each dining table for the guests’ reading enjoyment. “It was odd, actually, I noticed all the ones I purchased came from this one seller named Rank’n Dan from St. Augustine,” laughs Martin. “I thought it was so funny and cool that this guy had hoarded all these magazines from Jamaica, and lived just on the other coast. I decided to name a reef cake in his honor.” Diners will find under ‘Our Suggestions’ on the menu: Rank’n Dan. Enjoy a Cajun snapper and shrimp cake slider served with Old Florida gourmet lime tortilla chips, Caribbean salsa and a cold Red Stripe beer. Ya Mon.  SRQ    

Reef Cakes, 1812 South Osprey Ave., Sarasota, 941-444-7968, reefcakes.com, @reefcakes.